THE SCENE //
Big Sur is a winding 90-mile coastal gem with deserted beaches and towering redwoods, where the Santa Lucia Mountains meet the Pacific Ocean. Each turn along the narrow Highway 1 is somehow more photogenic than the last. Imagine rolling down the windows, winding along the seaside cliffs as you drive off into the never disappointing sunset. Sounds quite magical, and I promise it is!
PLANNING //
Whether you plan to drive north or south through Big Sur, I suggest you spend about an hour or two planning your trip. There is so much to see, and you will want to pull over at every turn to take photos and explore along the coast. I've driven both south from San Fran to LA and north from LA to San Fran. I'm not sure which I preferred because it felt diverse each way. On both occasions, we stayed in Santa Barbara area or Carmel-Monterey area since they seem to be the closest on the north and south ends.
Now for the planning - I highly recommend rising at the crack of dawn and getting on the road, so you have the maximum amount of time to explore. Since staying in Big Sur is expensive and often booked months in advance, I'd suggest staying in Santa Maria, Santa Barbara, or Morro Bay area if you are south of Big Sur. From the north, I'd recommend Carmel-Monterey Bay area.
Coty and I left Ventura (where we found the cheapest place to rest our heads) around 6am and stopped in Morro Bay around 11am for some fish and chips on the dock. If traveling with a GPS, make sure you follow Highway 1, rather than the fastest route generated by the GPS. Cell service is limited so don't rely on that for anything. Bathrooms and places to eat are also limited, so pack a lunch and a roll of TP!
I knew the timing was important since we only had one day to see Big Sur and so many things to do. I wrote everything down in advance in case my phone wouldn't work. I had each hour planned, which is not our usual method of traveling at all.
When we stopped for lunch, Coty said we needed to hurry as he had something planned. My internal dialogue: WHAT! What do you mean you have something planned?! Didn't you see our itinerary for the day??
Don’t get me wrong - I love when he plans fun things, but I hate surprises. It turns out we passed on all of the things we had originally planned to see because he had arranged a surprise horseback ride for us. Best. Surprise. Ever. We rode about two to three hours through the redwoods, across rivers, and ended on the beach. If you’re a horse lover or want to try something new, I highly recommend it!
Afterward, we drove to Bixby Bridge (photo above) and enjoyed the sunset. It was magical.
The next day we back-tracked to some of the popular attractions we had planned to see the day before.
ATTRACTIONS //
Elephant Seal Beach - We randomly stumbled across this, and the name is literal. The entire beach is littered with elephant seals, fighting and making wild noises. Plan about 15 minutes for the stop.
McWay Falls - I don't suggest paying to park. Instead, park along the road and walk. You'll notice the popular attractions easily because you'll see cars pulled over; just go with the crowds. Then follow the footpath, and it's maybe a five-minute walk to see the 80-foot waterfall and emerald water cove.
Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park - A great place to hike and take in all of the coastal views. There is a fee to park your car, but you can usually find roadside parking across the street if you’re just stopping quickly. There are also restrooms and trail signs throughout the park.
Bixby Bridge - Towards the top of Big Sur, the bridge is a popular place to watch the sunset.
Andrew Molera State Park - The Park offers beautiful beaches, campgrounds, and hiking.
Molera Horse Back Ride - One of the best horseback rides I've taken. We chose the Redwood Roundup Ride for $114 per person. The ride was two and a half hours long, starting deep in the Redwood Forest. The light leaked through the trees onto the fern covered grounds, and it felt magical. We crossed the Big Sur River many times before we reached the Redwood Grove. I felt like I was in a Western movie crossing through the rivers! As we traveled through the meadows, the guide shared lots of cool history about Andrew Molera State Park. From there, we took the horses onto the beach and rode along the water’s edge before returning to the stables. It was a challenging ride, but ideal for anyone who is fit and knows a little about horses.
You aren't allowed to take anything but a camera OR a phone, which has to be around your neck on a lanyard they provide. No water or backpacks - nothing. Wear a hat to shield your face/neck from the sun. This ride is something that you could also do the next day. If you stay in Carmel or Monterey, it's about 25 minutes back south - totally doable and so worth it.
THE SHORT LIST OF EATS //
The Big Sur Bakery - Heavenly for a morning shot of espresso or a donut, watching the morning light trickle through the Redwoods.
Nepenthe - The fancy option. Stunning views and the place to splurge on a nice dinner or sunset drinks.
Deetjens - A charming little place with a great selection of local wines. Make reservations, as this cozy dinning room can get really busy. It's a little on the pricey side, but looks amazing!
TIPS FOR THE COASTAL DRIVE //
GIVE YOURSELF PLENTY OF TIME. Set aside four to five hours just for the roughly 85-mile drive. It will take about that to travel from Santa Barbara to Monterey and vice versa without stops. You will want to stop at every turn and will catch yourself staying longer than intended. Give yourself at least a full day to experience Big Sur.
BE PATIENT. The route is a slow, relaxing drive and it’s often hard to take it all in at once. If you're in a rush, take the freeway. At some point you will find yourself stuck behind cars, RVs, and bikers. Cars will quickly merge on and off the road. All of that aside, just enjoy every minute of it. The views are breathtaking.
YOU WILL LOSE SERVICE ALONG THE COAST. Forget Google maps and Apple apps. Your phone will be pretty worthless along this drive. You'll need to know where the landmarks are, and I recommend writing things down in a notebook.
ROLL DOWN THE WINDOWS and put on a good playlist.
DO YOUR RESEARCH. This is your chance to be Polly Planner if you have limited time here. There is so much to see and do along the way - find what interests you. Discover something adventurous to do to break up the drive and time spent in the car.
MAKE SURE YOU HAVE SUPPLIES. Most importantly: food, water, and gas. There aren't many places to stop through Big Sur. There are a couple of gas stations, but they are expensive. Fill up your tank and have plenty of water with you.
DON'T DRIVE AT SUNSET. It's the most beautiful time of the day. It can also be really difficult to drive when you’re staring into the sun and passing cars on windy turns. Find a place to pull off and enjoy the view.
AIM TO STAY ON EITHER END. There will be plenty of options for accommodations with a variety of price points. I like the Carmel-by-the-Sea just north of Big Sur, or Cayucos and Morro Bay areas south of Big Sur. If camping is your thing, you can look into those options.
* UPDATE - LOOK FOR ROAD/PARK CLOSURES IN ADVANCE //
During the winter of 2017 California got a ton of rain causing major mudslides and closures throughout Big Sur. With parts of Highway 1 closed it made it almost impossible to access nearly 40 miles of Big Sur by car. 2017 was one of the toughest years for Big Sur. Before planning your trip look into current road conditions to see if there are any road,resturants or hotel closures. I feel so lucky I was able to see Big Sur twice before any of this happened.
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Do you have a favorite spot in Big Sur? Did you find traveling the coast as magical as me? Comment below. xx ASH
For more, read about our nearby stops in Carmel-By-The-Sea & Monterey Bay.
