A friend's wedding took us to New Orleans at the beginning of November. I was so excited to finally visit Nola after hearing wonderful things from friends who have recently visited. I now know why Troy and Rita decided to have their destination wedding there. I'm already looking forward to visiting again sometime. Seeing that it was 85 degrees in November, I'll avoid going during the summer months.
I'd heard wonderful things but nothing could prepare me for the instant love for the Big Easy. It has the European flair, mixed with the Carribean, along with the French, Spanish, Haitian, and cuban influences. The streets are filled with joyous enegy, the cuisine is diverse, there's endless history, the jazz scene will transport you back in time and the atmosphere couldn't be more interesting.
ACCOMODATIONS //
We opted out of the pricey hotel option and got an Airbnb with two other friends in town for the wedding. We wanted to stay somewhere that had plenty of shops and restaurants but still had the New Orleans character - Magazine Street in the Garden District was the perfect spot. Total for four nights was $633, split four ways was $158 each.
ARCHITECTURE //
One of my favorite things about visiting New Orleans was riding around on scooters through all of the different neighborhoods. The historic architecture matches the rich culture and energetic way of life of those living in New Orleans. The houses are colorful; the green plants hang from the covered porches. The shuttered windows and the tall doors are weathered with personality.
In the French Quarter, you'll find the iconic Creole Cottages, built between 1790-1850. They are charming single story houses are usually symmetrical with a steeply pitched roof and usually made of stucco or wood. Shutters, French doors, tall windows, and tall ceilings are elements that give these homes so much character. Because space is usually an issue, they are set to the front of the property line or open up directly onto the sidewalk. One of the most popular bars in the French Quarter, Jean Lafitte's Absinthe House on Bourbon Street, is one of the oldest examples.
THINGS TO DO //
VISIT CITY PARK - Escape the city and take a ride to the city park.
TAKE A GHOST TOUR - Looking for something to do at night? Book a ghost tour! You'll see lots of these tours in the evening around the French Quarter. We couldn't make the timing work but this is on the list for next time!
TAKE A KAYAK TOUR ON THE BAYOU - Again, this is something we still have to check off our list. .
JACKSON SQUARE - Lined with grande, historic buildings. Here you'll find a variety of artists, musicans and performers.
VISIT THE WHITNEY PLANTATION
JUMP ON A ST. CHARLES ST. CAR - BOUND FOR GARDEN DISTRICT - Victorian cottages and stately plantation homes, visit the haunted cemetery.
VISIT THE WWII MUSEUM
ENDLESS ART SCENE //
There is so much art to see in Nola. Every street corner, every open space, every park the art floods into the streets. Our favorite market was at 619 Frenchman Street the original location; there is also a new spot "The Art Garage" at 2231 St. Claude Ave. There was a variety of art including photographs, paintings, clothing, jewelry, etc. Here you'll find a one of a kind piece to take back home with you. There is a ton of music venues and restaurants in this area, and it's a perfect place to kill some time if you are waiting for dinner. They open around dinner time 6-7pm and close around midnight-1pm depending on the day.
The bottom two photos were taken at Jackson Square in the French Quarter. The historic square is a national lankdmark bursting with energy since the 1800's. It's now a cultural hub for artsist, musicans and performers. After we hit grabbed beignets at Cafe Du Monde just around the corner we took a stroll through the square.
MUSIC //
PRESERVATION HALL - FRENCH QUARTER - A historic place to listen to some traditional New Orleans Jazz music. The hall was established in 1961 to preserve, protect, and perpetuate jazz music. The room is small, dark and it hasn't been changed much since the 60's. Rather than waiting in line 30-45 minutes before the show started in hopes of getting in, we purchased $40-50 tickets in advance for reserved seating. At the door, tickets are less, but you risk not getting into the show or having to stand during the show. The lines usually get long, but you can grab a drink nearby and wait in line with it. The show was lively and felt like being transported back in time.
CORNER OF FRENCHMAN & CHARTERS STEET - We managed to see live music on the corner both nights we were in the area.
THE SPOTTED CAT - FRENCHMAN ST. - Live music, this place was packed each time we were in the area.
D.B.A. - FRENCHMAN ST. - Just across the street from The Spotted Cat, a little bigger and has a cooler vibe.
CHICKIE WAH WAH - CANAL ST. - Do yourself a favor get out of the touristy territory and head to this little gem to see some live music. On our last night we saw Justin Johnson play a mix of blues, folk, country, and rock on many, unique guitars including a 3 string shovel guitar and a diddley bow. The next set was Maggie Koerner who slapped a little soul into our faces. The crowd was intimate, and the energy was incredible - we left feeling like we had just went to church. The cover was $20, but so worth it.
SECOND LINE - Before visiting, this is something I'd never heard of and found myself asking, what is a second line? It's a traffic stopping- street prade where marchers follow the performers and scare rooftops to dance.
EATS //
Local specialies are gumbo, po' boys, and pralines.
CAFE DU MONDE - Coffee & Beignets -If you ask for any recommendations on where to eat in New Orleans most people will tell you to go here! Order the large, dense, fluffy beignets covered in inches of powdered sugar. Prepare yourself to get covered in sugar because if you do it right, you won't be able to avoid it! We stood in the to-go line (which was so long but only lasted about 10 minutes) then found a bench along the water to enjoy our beignets.
DISTRICT DONUTS - BREAKFAST/SNACK - This hidden gem in the Garden District is an essential stop if you're nearby. Large open space, cool vibes, sweet and savory options and solid coffee. What more could you want! The fresh, huge, donut varieties change daily and are announced via Instagram. The cold brew and cinnamon sugar donut really hit the spot.
SHAYA - MAGAZINE ST. - DINNER- We had our group dinner here, we called ahead and made reservations for seven people. It was Friday; the place was packed and lively. We somehow got the private back courtyard and had the place to ourselves. The cocktails were delicious; I highly recommend the one with beet infused gin, it was earthy and unique. We shared a ton of plates which I think is the way to go. For the table we got; Baba Ganoush, Israeli Salad, Labneh, Brussel Sprouts, Soft Cooked Egg Hummus, Lamb Ragu Hummus, Acorn Squash Salad. Since most of these dishes were pretty small to split seven ways, we each got or shared a larger plate. I shared the Roasted Chicken, and it was cooked to perfection. As a group, I'm pretty sure we consumed 20 pitas. Everything was spectacular and if your time is limited in New Orleans, put this at the top of your list.
THREE MUSES - FRENCHMAN ST. - DINNER - The bride and groom recommended this place. We were able to make reservations last minute online. We listened to the live music as we waited at the bar. I got the hibiscus jalapeño margarita, and we shared the blue cheese stuffed bacon dates and the pork belly on scallion pancakes. Since the apps were small, we also shared the beef rice bowl and the mac and cheese. I'm drooling just thinking about those dates!
COCHON BUTCHER - ANYTIME - You can smell this place from blocks away. We stopped in for lunch and tried a bunch of things. The alligator was surprisingly spicy and delicious. Everything we had hit the spot, I'd highly recommend this place!
TURKEY AND THE WOLF - LUNCH - Named best new retsturant of 2017 by Bon Appétit magazine. Some of the ingredients sound a little like stoner food (ie: dorito dust) but everything we had was solid! Don't miss the deviled eggs with the fried chicken skins on top.
PAGODA CAFE - A nice little shack near City Park. Perfect for breakfast or lunch or a quick snack and coffee. It's a small menu, but worth a stop if you're near the park.
Other recommended places that we didn't get a chance to try. Cafe Amelie, Coquette, Stanley, The Green Godess, Surrey's Juice Bar, Commander's Palace,
DRINKS //
PAT O'BRIEN'S - The place to go if you haven't tried a Hurricane. The place was lively, and the outdoor seating around the fountain made for a great afternoon. Also, check out the piano bar in the evening.
EL GATO NEGRO - We didn't have the chance to get there, but I was told by a friend that the margaritas were the best she's ever had. Margaritas + to-go cups, YES PLEASE!
COMMANDER’S PALACE - $.25 cent martinis during lunch hours with the purchase of an entree.
Other recommended bars on the list for next time. Cure,
GETTING AROUND // HEY Y'ALL. BEEP, BEEP!
We wanted to see things outside of the French Quarter & Bourbon Street. Originally we were going to rent bikes but decided scooters were a much better option. Honestly, it made the trip for me because we were able to see so much around the city that we wouldn't have otherwise! We chose the 24-hour option at Avenue Scooters for $75 which included a helmet and lock. I'm pretty sure the 4 of us smiled ear to ear every minute we were on our scooters. The morning we returned them we road through the freshly washed Bourbon Street at 9am and went to City Park. From there we stopped for brunch a Pagoda Cafe and rode down St. Charles to see all the mansions. If there is one thing I recommend, it's renting a scooter and exploring all the different neighborhoods, especially if you want to get a feel for how the locals live.
SHOPPING //
MAGAZINE STREET IN THE GARDEN DISTRICT - Walk for miles to see the all the boutique shops on Magazine Street. Things can seem a little spread out at times but it's a nice way to get some exercise and see the neighborhood.
ROYAL STREET IN THE FRENCH QUARTER - Endless antique shops, galleries and the cutest hotels. The perfect route to get from the French Quarter up to Frenchman Street and back. Each afternoon they shut down traffic for a couple of blocks o pedistrains can walk in the streets and watch the street performers.
JUST A LITTLE HEADS UP... If someone approaches you and says "I betcha I can tell ya where ya got dem shoes." You say sorry man.. I'm not falling for that.. and then say "ON MY FEET." It's a common scam that has been going on for years. Many will try to intimidate you and inform you that you now must pay them $20. It's best not to engage and just walk away. It happened to us twice, by two different men, while near Jackson Square.
FINAL THOUGHTS //
I mean it when I say New Orleans is one of my favorites cities I've visited in the states - definitely the most interesting! The culture, energy and cuisine will definitley take me back! I already have a list of things I missed and resturants I need to try. If you haven't been, I'd suggest putting this at the top of your list.
WHAT WE SPENT //
BUDGETING: A general idea oF what we spent in USD.
Airbnb for 4 nights - $633, split 4 ways $158 each
24 hour scooter rental - $84
Meals - $5-15 breakfast, $15 lunch, dinner $35 per person (we did a lot of eating)
Preservation Hall tickets - $35/each (at the time)
ADDITIONAL RESOURCES //
Thrillist - Places you need to know about when visiting New Orleans
Thrillist - Best New Resturants in New Orleans right now
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