ROMANCE IN ROME

GETTING FROM CAPRI TO ROME // FERRY -> BUS -> TRAIN

Our second stop on our Italy tour was Rome. We left Capri mid-morning and took the ferry back to the Naples Port, from there we took the bus to the Naples Train Station and took the high-speed train to Rome. When we arrived in Rome, we got a subway ticket and walked about 10 minutes to our Airbnb. This was our first experience on a train in Italy, and it went surprisingly well.

ACCOMODATIONS // 

We found a B&B for $77/night. Honestly, it felt a little sketchy, more like we were staying in someone else's home and putting them out on the couch. The hosts were helpful, but it didn't feel like a B&B. It ended up being okay for a two days stay since we were out all day anyway. We booked the place because it was so close to the Colosseum, which meant we walked past each morning and night. We tried to take advantage of it and would find somewhere to sit for a bit each time we passed through. One of my favorite memories is just sitting outside the Colosseum one night and talking with Coty about all the history. It was pretty incredible. 

THINGS TO DO //

COLOSSEUM - You can't visit Rome and not see the best-preserved monument of Ancient Rome. I'd suggest taking a private guided tour of the iconic landmark. If large crowds aren't your thing, you can grab a seat nearby and just relax. We didn't realize, but we were there on a free Sunday, and the lines were exceptionally long. If you want to beat the lines at the entrance, get there early. 

The Romans have obviously done a spectacular job at preserving this beauty over time. There was a lot of construction at the time we were there, and there was tons of scaffolding up. Sadly it wasn't that the made this experience a bit disappointing, it was people. Everywhere we turned there were people selling selfie sticks. It felt like we couldn't escape them. They approached us time and time again and would stick them right in front of our faces. It's a shame they allow this at such a place.

ROMAN FORUM - Wander around these well-preserved ruins and try to take it all in. I'm usually not one for tours but looking back I wish we would have done a guided tour of the ruins to understand and appreciate all the history.. 

PANTHEON - When we stepped into this former Roman Temple, now church my jaw just dropped- party because we just happen to wander into not knowing where we were going to see.  Not only is the architecture insane but the scale of everything is pretty unbelievable. The light coming through the 142-foot dome above creates quite the atmosphere. After almost two thousand years it's still the largest unsupported dome in the world. The Oculus at the top of the dome and the entry doors are the only source of natural light. It's hard to think about all the skill involved in creating such a building and then thinking about how long ago it was built. Tourists are expected to treat this as a place of worship; therefore, it's very serene once inside. Entry is free, and I think it's worth the visit.  

TREVI FOUNTAIN - One of the most iconic fountains in the world. Legend has it that whoever throws a coin in the Trevi will one day return to Rome. We saw many breathtaking fountains while in Rome, and I was so excited to see this one. Unfortunately, it was under construction during our visit which meant scaffolding, wire fencing, and harsh construction lighting. Not the ideal scenario but we quickly saw what we could and moved on.

PIAZZA NAVONA - One of the most lively squares in Rome with three sculpture fountains. Sit at one of the open-air cafes or take your drink to go and enjoy people watching. It's easy to jam your schedule full when traveling. Sometimes we just need to sit for a bit, and people watch! 

CAPUCHIN CRYPT & MUSEUM - Here you can tour the museum and see the crypts where thousands of skeletons and bones have been displayed in a unique way. They are posed, stacked and hung from above. We skipped through the museum part pretty quickly and saw the crypts in about 20 minutes. I'd advise you not to try and take photos. We realized the staff was standing in the gift shop watching from a mirror to see if anyone was taking pictures. They will demand to see your camera or phone and make you delete photos which I find hilarious! 

WHAT I WISH I WOULD HAVE KNOWN // 

I wish we would have planned to stay here another day or two. Because the city is so large and spread out there just wasn't enough time to see everything. With the extra time, I would have liked to see some of the monuments up close or have taken a tour.

HELPFUL TIP //

  • The rule is to walk in Rome. So be prepared and only wear the most comfortable shoes with support.. A lot of the roads are uneven coblestone which is hard on your feet. Know where you are going so you can cut time using the Metro if possible.

WHAT WE SPENT //

BUDGETING: A general idea of what we spent in USD. 

  • Airbnb for 2 nights - $154 total - $77/night

  • Meals for 2 - Breakfast $10 (pastry and a cappuccino), Lunch $20-30 (Usually pasta or pizza), Average Dinner $50 (Usually bread, an appetizer, two mains, wine, and dessert)

  • Tickets for Capuchin Crypt & Museum - $6

  • Ferry ticket - High speed from Capri to Naples Port - $20

  • Bus ticket - From Naples Port to Naples Train Station - $10

  • Train ticket - High speed from Naples to Rome - $70 each

PLANNING AN 18 DAY TOUR OF ITALY

THE BEST BIRTHDAY GIFT: THE GIFT OF TRAVEL 

Flashback to my 27th birthday, when Coty surprised me with a one-way ticket to Italy. I couldn't believe he just bought the tickets and made it happen. Between the two of us, though, he's always been the dreamer, while I'm the realist. After I had got over the initial shock, I called my mom, because I was admittedly a little overwhelmed. We hadn't been saving for this, nor had we any idea where to start planning, and I knew there would be a lot to research for an 18-day trip abroad.

I purchased a Fuji X100S camera the day before we left with the intention to post photos of our trip every night. I knew my family would appreciate regular updates to see what we were up to and know that we were safe. What I didn't anticipate was so many people asking about planning a similar trip from start to finish – budgeting, where to stay, and how to get around. Here are some items we considered as we prepped for our first trip abroad together.

BUDGETING //

Since we hadn't booked a return flight, I put together a budget to help us figure how many days/weeks we could afford to stay there. Below are the rough numbers we tried to stick to; we gave ourselves some cushion in each area and researched anticipated expenses.

Accommodations - $100/night x 18 days = $1,800/2 adults = $900/each

Meals - $15 breakfast - $15 lunch - $20 dinner = $50 day each x 18 days = $900/each

Transportation - $40-70/person per destination - estimated 10 trips = $400-$700

Activities & Miscellaneous - $500

Flights - NYC -> Naples, Italy = $325 Zurich, Switzerland ->NYC = $475

Total: $3,000/each for 18 days + flights

See below: I put together an Excel spreadsheet that I could maintain on my phone and kept track of expenses as we went. I highly recommend using something similar to this when traveling on a budget.

DECIDING WHERE TO GO //

After determining the general budget, we discussed the high priority places we wanted to see and brainstormed the traveling logistics. Some questions we asked ourselves:

  • How would we get to each city in the most affordable way?

  • Which cities were too far out of the way, or too expensive?

  • What kinds of things would we want to do?

We wanted to incorporate a mixture of relaxing and adventurous elements to our experience. We each did our own research and came up with separate lists of places. Then we reached out to friends on social media, knowing a number of them had recently been there. Here was our rough itinerary.  

Naples -> Capri (2.5 days) -> Rome (2.5 days) -> Siena (4 days) -> Florence (3.5 days) -> Venice (2 days) -> Milan -> Brig -> Zermatt (2.5 days) -> Zurich (2 days)

ACCOMMODATIONS //

I wanted to keep accommodation prices under $125/night and save wherever we could. This would allow us to pay for a few places that may go over budget. For example, to stay in Venice cost $135 per night; Zermatt cost $150 per night, and Zurich cost $164 per night. If I had to do it again, I would look into more B&B options because the hosts we encountered made our stay an enjoyable experience. From elaborate breakfasts, welcome drinks, recommendations, and meeting other travelers, it was better than being by ourselves. Really!

  • Be flexible. We booked about 14 of the nights in advance before leaving and gave ourselves a couple of dates to be flexible. I didn't want to have to look up places to stay for every night at the last minute, and I knew it would limit our options if we waited. Leaving four nights open seemed reasonable. We ended up loving Siena and stayed two extra nights. We then stayed one extra night in Venice because of the rain. Looking back, I'm so happy we had that flexibility!

  • Keep distance in mind. When looking for an Airbnb or B&B, we looked at options only within a 10-minute walk of the train station, or bus stop. I knew dragging my luggage any further than that on cobblestone just wouldn't be fun. We also didn't want to spend unnecessary money on a cab or to trudge a great distance in the rain.

  • Hang with the locals. We also did some research to see where the locals preferred to live. Living in NYC, I know you couldn't pay me to live near Times Square. We knew being away from all the tourist destinations would enable us to spend less, eat more authentic food, and avoid large crowds.

MAKING AN ITINERARY //

Once we decided on the places, we wanted to visit, and where we planned to stay over night, we put together a rough plan. When I say rough, I mean we plugged in all the cities and estimated how much time we wanted in each place. We looked up how much time we could anticipate spending on traveling between locations as well as modes of transportation available. We researched some return flights and found we had a couple of good options. Organizing the trip together this way made us realize how much time we would spend traveling to each place. We moved things around based on flight availability and cut a destination that was just too far out of the way. We decided it just was too much and we would rather spend more time at two of the places than adding another destination into the itinerary.

RESEARCHING SPECIFICS //

Next, I researched things to do or visit within each city that looked interesting. The first place I always look is TripAdvisor. Why? Because activities and attractions are ranked in popularity; travelers can leave honest reviews and post photos, and you can easily save things that look interesting. It's perfect for activities, points of interest, and restaurants. I mark anything and everything that seems interesting. From there, I move to Pinterest and begin pinning away. This trip for us was about exploring but also relaxing. My goal was to wake up, take a look at our options, see what the weather was like, and go from there! 

Once we had a better idea of what each place had to offer, we booked our accommodations and then started to think about what we were going to pack. 

PACKING //

We each packed for 18 days in a carry-on, and I still can't believe that actually happened! It was so nice to be able to travel with one bag and have everything I needed in one place. I admittedly did get tired of putting the puzzle together every couple of days, but I managed. We also brought a collapsible duffle to carry souvenirs, which saved us! I couldn't imagine dragging a full-size suitcase down a cobblestone road or, even worse, two bags!

Because the last week of our trip would be spent in Switzerland, I was a little worried about the weather difference from Italy. Either way, we couldn't depend on the forecast three weeks in advance, so we just packed things that layered well. It was 80 degrees in Capri, Italy and 26 degrees in Zermatt, Switzerland. I picked a color palette (maroon, red, black, gray) and stuck to it. This allowed everything to work together so I could maximize my options easily. I will do that for every long trip from now on. I tried on everything in advance and took quick photos with my phone. This helped me remember what I had so I didn't have to unfold everything in my suitcase when it was time to get ready. Beware of throwing everything you own in your bag! 

  • Look at the weather.

  • Pick a color palette.

  • Try on everything and take photos to reference.

  • Remember to save room for whatever you purchase.

  • Most importantly, pack light!

 

Did you find this helpful? What other questions do you have? Comment below! xx ASH

FOUR DAYS IN FLORENCE

GETTING THERE //

We were a bit sad to leave Siena, but everyone said we would love Florence and we still had so much left to see. We boarded at the same bus stop where we arrived just a couple days prior and headed north. For some reason, we always had a tough time finding the tickets, to the point that it kind of became a joke. No worries, though: for around €10, you can't beat the cost of the ticket! A couple of hours went by, and once we got into Florence, we cautiously listened for our stop. To make sure we didn’t miss it, we found it helpful to use the GPS on our phone periodically. As we were about to arrive, I took a photo of myself to remember just how happy I was at that moment, riding on the bus surrounded by strangers and not knowing for sure where we were going. I understand many people would hate that situation, but at that moment, I was soaking it all up. I thought about my family and how I wished so badly they could all be there, taking in those new experiences with me.

ACCOMODATIONS //

We stayed at an Airbnb in Santa Spirito, which couldn't have been in a better location. The place itself wasn't the best; it had a bit of a musty smell and was pretty dark. It also didn't help that it rained on and off the first two days, we were there. However, it was within walking distance to everything, yet far enough out of the touristy areas that we could relax. There were many fantastic restaurant options just minutes from the apartment. Just down the street, there was a local pub that offered a long list of beers that included IPAs, which were hard to come by in Italy!

EXPLORING //

Once we settled in, we freshened up and set off exploring. By exploring, I mean aimlessly wandering while people-watching. Along the way, we found some places of interest.

MERCATO CENTRALE - A food lovers dream and the perfect way to spend a rainy day in Florence! We arrived at Mercato Centrale a little late, and the wet market was closed downstairs, but we walked around the outside and looked at all the goods, then went into the market and up to the food court. We grabbed a beer and sat and people-watched for a couple of hours. There were tons of different food to make our mouths water, and the atmosphere was lively for an overcast, rainy day.

Outside you can go shopping at the San Lorenzo market where you can find leather goods, pottery, and souvenirs. It’s a great place to walk around for a few hours.  

BOBOLI GARDENS - I had such high hopes for the Boboli Gardens. We were staying about 15 minutes away, so it was an easy walk over. After waiting in a long line, however, we finally entered, and I honestly felt a little letdown. There was a lot of grass and bushes, but beyond that, I wasn't impressed with the greenery. The fountains were all turned off and full of murky brown water. Granted it was October, but I expected a bit more life. On a positive note, it was a lovely place to walk around and see some of the sculptures. The mountain views looking out over the city were beautiful. I would suggest going if you have multiple days in Florence.

 

PONTE VECCHIO BRIDGE - One of the most popular bridges in the world, the Ponte Vecchio, which mean “old bridge,” joins the center city with the district of Oltrarno, on the south bank of the Arno River. From a distance, it looks slightly like a bunch of little homes stuck between two banks of the river. The bridge is home mostly to jewelers selling gold and silver. Although the area was really crowded, it's worth the walk over. Rumor has it that, in World War II, it was the only bridge not bombed in Florence because Adolf Hitler took a liking to it. Further history of this bridge is fascinating and worth reading about. 

PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA - A free, open-air museum centrally located in Florence, the Piazza Della Signoria is home to some really beautiful sculptures. There is a giant replica of Michelangelo's David, the admirable Fountain of Neptune, and our favorite: Perseus with the Head of Medusa. Seeing the square in the evening is magical. It's the perfect place to have some gelato or coffee and take in the surroundings. Don't miss this! 

Uffizi Gallery - Italy's most famous art museum. Expect long lines at the Uffizi Gallery, as they have over 1.5 million visitors each year. They suggest buying your tickets online (€4-8) ahead of time. Unfortunately, the museum was closed the day we had planned to go, so check hours of operation in advance.

DUOMO - Cathedral of Santa Maria deli Fiore - The Duomo is massive – almost unreal. We didn't go in as the lines wrapped around the back of the Duomo, but we walked around and admired every intricate detail. The colors and features that filled every inch left me speechless. Once inside, the views from the top are supposed to be breathtaking. I've added this to my list for next time I find myself in Florence.

EATS //

Santo Spirito / San Frediano Neighborhood

RISTRANTE TRATTORIA ANGIOLINO - DINNER - We had dinner here twice, and if we had stayed another night, it would have been three times. It was so close to where we stayed, and the atmosphere was warm and cozy, making it an incredible experience. The service was exceptional and made it feel like dining with family. The second time around we had the same waiter, who remembered we were there a couple of nights prior and said, “since you already had the mushroom ravioli, I would suggest the rigatoni.” 

IL SANTO BEVITORE - DINNER - We randomly passed by this place on the way home one night and saw people waiting out front. We loved how buoyant the atmosphere felt just from outside. The next evening, we passed by around 5pm and made a last minute reservation for 7pm. They only take one seating for the night, because that's just how long Italian meals last.  

WESTIN EXCELSIOR - ROOFTOP DRINKS -  We had been on our feet all day, and I needed to sit and relax. Coty said, “we are going there,” and pointed up to a rooftop. We took the elevator up and rested for a couple of hours until sunset, drinking overpriced wine. I figured we were paying for the view during the golden hour and quickly got over the price. I'm sure there are way cooler rooftop bars, but this one was nice for the view.

PIAZZA SANTO SPIRITO MARKET - GRAB & GO - The market was just around the corner from us.  We enjoyed some mystery meat sandwich (I think it was sausage) with a mayo-like sauce and grilled peppers. We never found out what it was, but it was delicious and well worth a couple of euros.

VENCHI - GELATO - Gelato shop right near the leather market. Oh my, this place was excellent. Good luck picking your flavor(s)! But let's be real – most gelato in Italy is on point! Eat as you walk through the market or go upstairs to see if you can claim a window seat overlooking the market.

WHAT WE BROUGHT HOME //

I picked up a little leather crossover bag for my mom at the leather market. I was able to bargain with them and purchased the purse for €20. Across the street, we picked up a small bag of chocolates from Venchi. The one thing we got for ourselves was a letter opener from the Santo Spirito market – something we knew we could use around the office.

TIPS FOR VISITING FLORENCE //

  • If you want the climb one of the towers, visit one or a few of the museums, or see the gardens you need to book a ticket/time slot in advance to assure you don’t miss you.

  • Don’t pack your itinerary full of museums and galleries. Yes, there is a lot to see, but our favorite way to explore Florence was just walking around.

  • Eat as much gelato as possible. The more you walk, the more gelato you earn.

WHAT WE SPENT //

BUDGETING: A general outline of what we spent in USD.

  • Airbnb for four nights - $426 total - $106/night

  • Meals for 2 - Breakfast $10 (pastry and a cappuccino), Lunch $20-30 (Usually pasta or pizza), Average Dinner $50 (Usually bread, an appetizer, two mains, wine, and dessert)

  • Tickets for Boboli Gardens - $15

  • Bus ticket - From Siena to Florence - $10

  • Train ticket - High speed from Florence to Venice - $70 each

 

FOR THOSE WHO HAVE BEEN TO FLORENCE OR ARE PLANNING WHAT ARE SOME THINGS I MISSED? COMMENT BELOW.  xx ASH

GETTING LOST IN THE CANALS OF VENICE

GETTING THERE //

From Florence (Santa Maria Novella Train Station) we took the high-speed train to Venice (The Venice Santa Lucia Train Station). I didn't realize that besides a boat this was the only way to get into Venice. When we arrived, it was cold and rainy. Luckily we were staying at the cutest B&B where our host greeted us with a glass of wine and cured meats and cheeses. His warm welcome and the cozy little room couldn't have been any more needed after a long morning of traveling. We spent the rest of the afternoon wandering around taking photos. Despite the rain, Venice had a charming, small-town feeling. I couldn't get over the mix of textures on all the buildings and the Venetian Gothic architecture. The way all of the colors blend, and the brick had fallen, it all seemed too perfect to be natural. The waters were blue, and the skies were gray. 

ACCOMMODATIONS //

We had only intended to spend 1 night in Venice but it rained miserably the first day we decided to stay a second. We booked our single night at the most lovely B&B (Venice-BB- Venezia) just minutes from the train station. Our host, Alessandro, was the so welcoming and had infectious energy. His dog, Gina, was the B&B owner. The room was clean, simple and had everything we needed. Breakfast in the morning was a full spread and one of the most delicious meals I had in Italy. He walked across town that morning for the bread and made everything fresh. It was a feast! I highly recommend staying with Alessandro, just be sure to book in advance and space is very limited. 

Because of the rain, we decided to stay another night. It was last minute, and we knew we wouldn't be in the room much at all. The location was essential as we wanted to stay even closer to the train. We booked the second night at Hotel Amadeus, which was nothing to write home about - especially after our stay at the B&B. I ended up with ants in my toiletry bag that made their way into my coconut oil from the mini fridge. It was pretty gross!

RAIN DELAY //

When we woke the first day, we heard the flood warning whistles. With only one day to explore we layered up, grabbed our umbrellas and set off into the flooded streets. Our first stop was purchasing some gorgeous neon colored plastic boot covers to keep our shoes dry, so worth €10. This wasn't how I pictured Venice but the rain running down the sides of the colorful, gothic buildings was a different kind of beauty. The canals overflowed into the streets and locals walked around like it was just another day in Venice. I felt like a kid on a snow day, except it was rain instead. We laughed, we made the most of our ridiculous boot covers and went with it!

We spent the day exploring and getting lost in the canals. I was surprised when I read that Venice is made of 118 submerged islands that have 400-footbridges and 170 boat canals to connect the city and make it accessible for people. 

We enjoyed ourselves the most when we broke away from the busy squares and got away from the people.

ATTRACTIONS //

Rialto Market - Hit up the local market, check the days & times and take a gondola ride over. We skipped the €150 ride and instead took the €2.50 ride that the locals take, where we still had the boat to ourselves.

Saint Marks Square - Although this is one of the most popular places to see, we hated every minute of it. Perhaps it was the rain bringing out all the weird people, but we were bombarded with men trying to hand us rice so we could get the pigeons to fly on us. Then after they followed us demanding 15 euro we were ready to go. It really took away from the vibes of the area. Not to mention it was packed and not a good day to sit and people watch. 

Rialto Bridge - A beautiful bridge that is lined with small shops and a lovely view over the Grand Canal. It's one of Venice's most famous landmarks! 

Touristy Gondola Ride - A lovely way to Venice from a different perspective. Rides are pricey €80-150 but can be shared with other people

Palazzo Mora Exhibitions - We needed to get out of the rain and randomly found this beautiful exhibit. The location was stunning. Each room offered interesting modern art that was a breath of fresh air after seeing so much religious art. We spent a couple of hours here exploring the different floors..

EATS & DRINKS // 

Torrefazione Cannaregio - COFFEE - A total hidden gem! One of the best expressos we had in Italy. They roast their bean right there, and they were extremely friendly. There aren't any seats or tables but stand at the bar like a local. I had the cappuccino with chocolate... It was heaven! 

After a couple days in Italy, it's apparent that there is a strong coffee culture here. Not a lot of people know that the love for coffee started in Venice as the coffee bean was brought from Istanbul in the 1570's. Venetians and Arabs had a flourishing trade industry which enabled a large variety of goods and commodities to be imported. The merchants sold this new beverage, coffee to the wealthy and from there it spread through the rest of Italy. This is something the Venetians are very proud of. 

Grom Gelato - GELATO - We randomly stumbled across this place. Dear goodness, go for the pistachio! Lucky after returning to NYC, I was told they have four different Grom's here in the city. I had no idea! 

Il Santo Bevitore - PUB - Off the beaten path, stopped in here for their vast craft beer selection. FINALLY an IPA in Italy. After almost two weeks of crappy beers we found a hidden gem.. and never wanted to leave. Everyone there was cool, and you could tell this is where the locals came. Cozy atmosphere and delicious snacks.

Birreria Zanon - PUB - We passed here a couple of times, and this place was happening. The energy was high, and I wish we would have stopped. 

Pontini - DINNER - We didn't have a chance to eat here, but it was recommended. I knew it had to be good because there was a line about 45 minutes long and everyone was standing outside in the rain. 

Osteria ai 40 Ladroni - DINNER - in the Cannaregio neighborhood. Highly recommended by our B&B host, it's one of his favorite local gems. He suggested getting the crab polenta and cuttlefish pasta (blackened by their ink)

Resturants our list for next time: Ristorante Al Covo

WHAT WE SPENT //

BUDGETING: A general idea of what we spent in USD.

  • Airbnb for 1 night - $135

  • Hotel Amadeus - 1 night - $125

  • Meals for 2 - Breakfast $10 (pastry and a cappuccino), Lunch $20-30 (Usually pasta or pizza), Average Dinner $50 (Usually bread, an appetizer, 2 mains, wine, and dessert)

  • Tickets for the "locals" gondola ride - $2.5

  • Train ticket - High speed from Florence to Venice - $50 each

Have you been to Venice? If so, what were your favorite things? If you are planning, what are you most interested in seeing? Comment below

 xx ASH

THINGS TO KNOW BEFORE TRAVELING TO ITALY

It's always helpful to a little research on the customs and etiquette of a country before visiting. There's nothing worse than looking like a rude tourist. 

After two weeks in Italy, I want to share the things I learned both in advance and during my time there.

HELPFUL ITALIAN WORDS TO KNOW

While you'll find most Italians in bigger cities can speak English it's still polite to know some words and phrases in Italian to help show some respect. We learned the basics using the Duolingo app on our phones and then used the Google Translate app for help while there. 

Please don't think that if you speak louder, the Italians will understand what you are saying. 

"Ciao" - hello & goodbye
"Grazie" - thank you
"Parla L'Inglese?" - Do you speak English?
"Non capisco" - I do not understand
"Mi scusi/ Mi dispiace" - Excuse me/Sorry
"Aiuto" - Help - Good to know in case of an emergency. 
"Mi potete aiutare per favore" - Can you help me, please?
"Quanto" - How much?
"Controlli, per favore"  - Check, please.
"Duo scoops" - two scoops (we used this daily) ;-)
"Vino rosso/bianco de la casa" - red/white house wine
"Zero, uno, due, tre, quattro, cinque, sei, sette, otto, nove, dieci" - Numbers 0-10

PACKING 

We each were able to get everything we needed for 18 days into our carry on and our small backpacks. That included five pairs of shoes for me, a hat and my essentials. (Looking back now I would have only taken three pairs of shoes.) I couldn't have done it without packing cubes. 

  • SIZE - Having a heavy suitcase or multiple bags could easily make or break your trip if you are traveling to multiple places. Be prepared to drag your suitcase on cobblestone streets and carry it up stairs as well as on and off trains. I'd suggest a carry on and folding a duffle bag inside or carrying a backpack. Anything more is pushing it. If you can't lift it easily, you need to rethink what you are bringing.

  • WEIGHT - Know your bag weight. If you are unsure or plan on purchasing things while on vacation bring a portable luggage scale. Discount airlines and international carriers are very strict with bag weights.

  • CONVERTERS - Don't forget to pack a power converter or two. I say two because ours broke one night in Siena and we had to play charades to find a new one.

DINING OUT // 

  • RIPOSO - Mid day siesta, takes place between 1pm-4pm. Italians take this very seriously so don't be surprised when restaurants and stores close during this time.

  • SITTING VS. STANDING - If you grab a cappuccino, there is probably a bar with many people standing. If you decide to sit at table most places will charge you an additional fee, making the costs sometimes double. If you want to save money, stand at the bar like the Italians. You need to pay for your coffee first, then take your ticket to the counter.

  • AVOIDING TOURIST TRAPS - Restaurants with pictures on their menus are typically more likely to be more touristy. If you're looking for a local, more authentic Italian meal, avoid places that have menus in English and have hosts outside trying to lure you in. Ask the locals where they eat.

  • TIMING - Have an early lunch. Resturants usually close around 3pm and open again for dinner around 7pm-8pm and can last hours. Everything is slower in Italy so pack your patience and enjoy leaving the rush at home. Plan your meals accordingly and don't be in a hurry to wrap up dinner.

  • WATER - In Italy, you pay for bottled water when you sit down. They usually offer tap or sparkling water; there are times that the prices (2-4 euros) can be a dollar or two less than a 1/2 craft of house wine.

  • GETTING THE BILL - They expect you to ask for the bill when you are finished with your meal. Waiters consider it rude to bring the check before you ask.

  • TIPPING - "Coperto - bread, plates, knives" If you want to tip you can but it's not expected. You can round up to the nearest euro or leave a couple of extra euros.

  • VARIETY - Food in Italy is so much more than pasta and pizza. Branch out and try to do a little research to what food is is typical in that region. For example, in Florence try the steak - Bistecca Florentina.

DIFFERENT TYPES OF EATING ESTABLISHMENTS

When choosing a place to eat, you'll notice there are a few options. Knowing the difference will help you decide which will work best for you. 

Trattorias are traditionally family owned, casual neighborhood restaurants that serve a changing seasonal menu comprised of local favorites. Expect to find more rustic, more home-cooked foods. They bring in a lot of their money by offering take out. 

Ristorantes are full-service restaurants that provide a more upscale menu and can be quite expensive. In Italy, you won't be able to call for take out, but you can expect to sit at the table. You will be served bread, covered by the coperto. On the menu, you'll see antipasti, primi, secondi, contorni, and dolci (desserts) options. 

Osterias are wine bars that are traditionally more simple than trattorias and usually do not have a menu. They may offer a two or three-course meal at a fixed price with wine and are usually less expensive than trattorias. The atmosphere is generally very cozy with just a couple of tables where locals can sit and have a quick bite to eat before getting back to work. 

Enotecas or "wine bars" are places to have a glass of wine and enjoy light appetizers.

Paninoteca a place you can pick up high-quality sandwiches like paninis made of freshly baked bread made of artisanal grains, meat, and cheese.

OTHER HELPFUL DINING TIPS:

GELATO - Choose your gelato wisely. Sure, it's everywhere. We were told avoid anything bright or neon colored as those are natural ingredients. Also to avoid the mountains of gelato that are stacked a foot high. Look for places with lines and read reviews. 

CAFE CULTURE - here in the states we drop into a cafe to use the restrooms, catch up on some work on our laptops and access the free wifi. Although, this seems quite normal this idea doesn't really exist in Italy. 
OLIVE OIL - and sometimes vinegar is used instead of salad dressing.
PIZZA CUTTING - In Italy, they eat their pizza with a fork and a knife. Don't be surprised when they bring a whole pie to the table that isn't cut into slices. They don't typically eat with their hands or share their pizzas. 

SPAGHETTI & MEATBALLS - A typical Italian meal in the U.S. but you won't find it on the menu unless you are at a touristy restaurant. You'll find pasta under the "primi" section of the menu and meat under the "secondi" section. If you want more of a meat sauce, order the spaghetti bolognese.

BREAKFAST - Don't expect a big breakfast in Italy, a typical breakfast is an espresso with a biscotti or croissant. Most hotels with have a larger American style breakfast. Breakfast is usually from 8-10am, where ordering a cappuccino is acceptable but ordering one after 10 am may get you funny looks. 

MANNERS AT THE MARKET & PRODUCE STANDS

Don't ever touch the fruits and vegetables on the stands or in the markets in Italy. They take pride in making sure the produce is the perfect level of ripeness which means it needs to be handled delicately. They also don't want to spread unnecessary germs. You should notify the shop owner and ask "May I pick my own?" If they say yes, then handle very lightly and get what you need. If not, let them know what you would like and how much (ex. three onions, one pound tomatoes) and when you would like to eat it. Not all shop owners are the same but don't assume you can just walk up and smell the tomatoes then put them back down. 

If you want to pick your own, you may find shopping at the grocery market a better option. You can touch the produce but not with your bare hands. They often will provide you with disposable gloves that you are expected to use. 

TRAINS/TICKETS/TAXI'S

  • PURCHASING TICKETS - At larger stations there will be self-serve kiosks to get your train tickets. They should have an English option, too! If you are looking to purchase bus tickets, we found that they were usually at the cigarette shops.

  • VALIDATING TRAIN & BUS TICKETS - you must look for the little machines to validate your tickets to prove you are using the ticket right then. If you forget to do this, you may get a hefty fine from the inspector. Make sure to keep your ticket for the duration of your journey.

  • SCHEDULE/ARRIVALS/DEPARTURES - Trains in Italy (and Europe in general) are much more advanced than in the states. So many trains come and go, expect to board just minutes before the train is scheduled to leave and be prepared to depart on time. Know when and if you need to book tickets in advance. We bought all our tickets right before traveling and only once had to wait a couple of hours for a train (which was going to Switzerland). If you aren't sure where to go, just look for the info booths.

  • OPT FOR HIGH-SPEED TRAINS WHEN TRAVELING FURTHER - They will cost a bit more, but you will have more time to explore your destination. If you aren't traveling far, I'd suggest just taking the slower local trains because arrive a half hour earlier may not be worth the additional cost.

  • BUSES - Don't just assume the bus knows you are waiting for it. You may have to wave your hands as it's approaching. You'll also have to push the button at your stop for it to stop.

  • TAXI'S - You can't hail a taxi in Italy. You'll need to call a taxi company to request one, or you'll have to find a taxi stand where you can pick one up. Make sure you have cash to pay.

ACCOMMODATIONS 

  • Hotels in Italy are required by law to register every guest with the police. Don't be surprised at check in if they ask for your passport to make a copy.

  • When you check out of the hotel at the end of your stay, you will be asked to pay a tourism tax. This tax is per person, per night and can only be paid in cash.

  • Elevators are usually used to transport luggage and can be very small. If you are a large family, it may be easier to take the stairs and send your luggage up separately.

GENERAL & SAFETY  

ALWAYS CARRY SOME CASH - I'd suggest 40-50 euros. Not all places accept credit/debit cards, and you don't want to find yourself in a situation where you're unable to pay for something. 

SPACE IS LIMITED EVERYWHERE YOU GO - Everything is compact - seats on trains are a little smaller, luggage racks are smaller, hotel and restaurant spaces are much more compact. Another reason to travel lightly. 

PICKPOCKETERS  & PURSE SNATCHERS ARE EVERYWHERE - We chatted with an American man in Rome that had it wallet stolen one night and the next night his phone was taken from his pocket. I read horror stories of men on scooters in Naples that would snatch women's bags as they were crossing the intersection. Use common sense and try not to look like a complete tourist. If you have to pull out a map, check your surroundings and be aware. Always have your money in a couple different of places. Make sure all bags are locked with a TSA approved lock while in transit. Don't travel fearfully - travel carefully. 

Do you have any other helpful info worth knowing in advance? Comment below! :-) 

MEDIEVAL SIENA

Siena is a medieval town, located in Italy's central Tuscany. Here you'll find preserved the Gothic architecture, and well, I've never seen anything like it. From the red brick to the cobblestone streets, it's small-town charm is undeniable. The buildings stand 4-8 stories high, and the colorful shutters and little balconies contrast from the abundant red brick. From above terra cotta clay tiles can be seen covering the roof of every building. In the distance, rolling hills melt and disappear into the horizon, creating a beautiful Tuscan landscape. It’s just a short bus ride away from Florence, making it a perfect place to make a day trip!

GETTING THERE // 

From Rome, we took the bus to Siena. We didn't have any expectations of Siena, instead we just randomly picked it based on where we could easily get to by bus. If you travel to Italy, Siena is a must! It's a quick day trip from Rome or Florence. I'd suggest giving yourself at least two days to explore the shops, visit the Duomo, enjoy some gelato and a traditional Tuscan dinner.  

RAIN, RAIN GO AWAY // 

Our first day was spent wandering the streets, stopping in all the little shops and making necessary stops for gelato. The narrow streets are naturally on the darker side, and the gray storm clouds in the distance added to the drama. We sat on the ground in the Piazza del Campo and watched the storm roll in. We didn't have dinner plans and decided to grab a beer and cheese plate in the Piazza and wait for the storm to pass. After a couple of hours and a couple of pretty bad beers, it stopped dumping rain, and we slowly walked back to our bed and breakfast. 

ACCOMMODATIONS // 

We found a little B&B on Airbnb last minute right in the heart of the Siena. It was a long six story walk up, but the simple room with a shared bathroom for $75/night was just what we needed. Oh, and the views looking out over Siena were PRICELESS, especially during sunset. We ended up staying here another night and upgraded to a room with a private bathroom and an even better view. Although we had a slight language barrier here, the hosts were super helpful making recommendations and giving us maps of Siena. 

EATS //

We asked anyone that we communicated easily with for food recommendations. We were told to avoid places that gave you "English menus" or places that had the gelato stacked sky high with unnatural looking colors. It was here I felt the need for a carb break and was desperate for a salad. I just assumed the "rocket" in the salad was seafood because of the high price 15+ euros. Nope, turns out that's just what they call arugula. Anyways, these are the places we ended up eating! 

NANNINI - COFFEE & BREAKFAST - We stopped here each morning for a cappuccino and a savory meat and cheese croissant. The have endless desserts and sweet treats. 

RISTORANTE IL CAMPO - LUNCH - Our touristy lunch overlooking the Piazza del Campo. We got a pizza and struggled to cut it with a fork and knife, then spent the rest of the meal wondering why they just don't cut the pizza like they do in the states. HA! 

ANTICA TRATTORIA PAPEI  - DINNER - We wanted to know where the locals ate, so we asked our B&B host, and this was at the top of his list. We arrived when they opened at 7 pm, and within minutes the entire restaurant was full. We sat outside on the covered patio. Let me start by saying our service was incredible. The waiter was so excited to learn about us and help us with any questions about the menu. We ended the meal with complimentary shots of limoncello in NYC shot glasses and some almond cookies. 

OSTERIA II GRATTACIELO - DINNER - Another recommendation just steps away from our B&B. We got here an hour before they closed. The waitress was friendly, but we were surprised they didn't have menus and only had one or two kinds of pasta with your choice of sauce. It was a little strange not knowing prices or really what we were ordering, but our meal was both delicious, quick and cheap. I was surprised to see that this little gem was #27 out of 400 restaurants in Siena. 

LOCAL GROCERY STORE - Don't forget to check out the options at the local grocery store. There was a beautifully fresh, made to order section where we picked up some little things, along with a bottle of wine, meats, and cheeses so we could have at the B&B, 

 

THINGS TO DO //

VISIT THE DUOMO - Easily the #1 thing you must do when visiting Siena. It's hands down one of the most stunning pieces of architecture I have ever seen. I didn't have enough room here to gush about our visit to the Sienna Cathedral (Duomo), a separate post is in the works. Stay tuned!. 

HANGOUT IN THE PIAZZA DEL CAMPO - Grab some gelato, pack some snacks, or bring a good book to hang out in the Piazza. We sat here for a couple of hours just resting and taking in everything around us. 

WALK AROUND TO ALL THE LITTLE SHOPS - Just walking the streets here was fun. All the little shops, restaurants, cathedrals, galleries can easily be found within a short walk. The streets are full of character, and it feels as though you're on a movie set. Some are dark, some are brightly colored and after a day or so you should be able to navigate around pretty easily as Siena is pretty small. 

PALIO DI SIENA - Twice a year, in July and August, the center of Siena (Piazza Del Campo) is transformed into a horse racetrack. Thousands of people travel here to watch 17 different neighborhoods compete to win the sought after "Drappellone" prize. Each of the neighborhoods is represented by a decorated silk flag. A historical costume parade takes place before the race and kicks off the most popular event in Siena. People cram into the center of the Piazza and hang from the balconies as the jockeys race bareback around the square. They do three quick laps and the race is usually over in 90 seconds. After learning about the race Coty and I have added this to our bucket list. 

* Please note, this is not my photo. It is a photo I took of another photo in one of the shops in Siena. Artist unknown. 

WHAT WE BROUGHT HOME //

After dinner one night we decided to get some gelato and walk around. Siena is peaceful in the evening after all the day trippers have left. We walked past a shoe store, and Coty spotted a gold pair of boots on display. He stopped and said you need those boots. The next day we visited the shop, and I decided to splurge on them. They were handmade in Italy and the quality is so stunning which is why we only refer to them as the "stunners" now.

MY ADVICE //

  • Ask locals for advice on places to eat and things to do throughout Siena.

  • Try to avoid eating at the touristy spots around the Piazza del Campo.

  • If visiting the Duomo set aside 2-4 hours and try to get there as early as possible to avoid the lines.

  • Make time to wander the streets and visit all the shops.

  • Wear comfortable footwear; there are lots of hills.

  • Stay at least one night in Siena, rather then just visiting for the day.

WHAT WE SPENT //

BUDGETING: A general idea of what we spent in USD.

  • Airbnb for three nights - $263 total - average $87 per night

  • Meals for 2 - Breakfast $10 (pastry and a cappuccino), Lunch $20-30 (Usually pasta or pizza), Average Dinner $50 (Usually bread, an appetizer, two mains, wine, and dessert)

  • Tickets for Duomo - $15 per person

  • Bus ticket - From Rome to Siena - $25 per person

  • Bus ticket - From Siena to Florence - $10 per person

Have you been to Siena? If so, did you make it to the Duomo? I’ll do a separate blog post on the Duomo soon. xx ASH

CAPRI ESCAPE

ISLAND VIBES //

As soon as you step off the boat at the Marina Grande, you'll notice a lot of people take day trips to the island of Capri. The island is the busiest at the port but venture away from the crowds and let yourself fall in love. At the top of the funicular the narrow streets of Capri smell of fresh lemon and homemade waffle cones. The sea breeze and bright blue water make you feel as if you fell into a Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue ad. The views from around the island will leave you mesmerized. It's truly a travelers paradise and worth being at the top of your traveling wish list.

PLANNING //

Capri was the first stop on our 18-day tour of Italy and Switzerland. We want to start somewhere relaxing and finish with adventure. We initially debated between Capri, and it's lesser-known cousin to the north, Ischia. They each had different vibes, but we went with our gut and went with the gorgeous island of Capri in the Bay of Naples. I'm hoping next trip we will be able to see more of the Amalfi coast and get a mud treatment in Ischia. I've learned don't just plan a day trip to the islands, plan for a couple of days or a week. I promise you won't want to leave.

GETTING THERE // PLANE->BUS->FERRY

We left NYC at 3pm on Oct. 1, 2015, and arrived the next morning at 6am in Naples. When we arrived, it was raining like ever! We took a bus from the airport that dropped us off at Napoli Beverello. We thought we would have a pizza in Naples, but after reading a lot about the pickpocketing and safety concerns, we decided to head straight for the ferry to get to the island of Capri. The high-speed ferry ticket (biglietto in Italian) cost about €20 and took about 45 minutes. We decided to take the quickest option because we hadn't eaten and we thought we would get there, drop our luggage and then grab something to eat. Welp, that all sounded nice until we hit some really rough waters and I got BOAT SICK! Yikes, not the way I wanted to spend the first day of vacation. I felt better when Coty said they handed about 50 other bags. The waters were so rough it wasn't safe to get up and run towards the bathroom because the floors were slippery from the rain. I wouldn't know because I couldn't even lift my head up. I must have looked like a zombie dragging myself from the boat, up the funicular then to the apartment where we were staying. We settled in and passed out until dinner time. Why am I sharing all this? Because I've learned it's important to listen to your body when you're traveling, be flexible with plans and more importantly remember that traveling isn't always easy and glamorous.

ACCOMMODATIONS //

We found the coziest little place on Airbnb which was great for two and in the perfect location. We didn't want to have to take a long taxi ride so we found a place where we could easily access using the funicular rail. From the ferry to our apartment was a quick 10 minutes. We wanted to be within walking distance to the Piazza and the center of Capri. Two nights including taxes and cleaning fees $284. If you choose to stay at a hotel, you may be able to arrange for them to transport your bags to the hotel using a narrow little vehicle like the one stacked with fruit below. 

ThiNGS NOT TO MISS //

PIAZZA UMBERTO I - RELAX & PEOPLE WATCH - Easily found at the top of the funicular. Lovely place to relax in the early morning while sipping a cappuccino or a glass of vino in the evenings. We were up at 5am our first morning in Capri, so that's exactly what we did.

GARDENS OF AUGUSTUS -  Beautiful and romantic place to take photos and soak up the endless views of the Faraglioni to the left, and the Via Krupp to the right. Look out over the cliffs into the Marina Piccola Bay and watch the boats come and go. Entrance to the gardens cost 1 euro. Don't forget to get a lemon granita using Capri's famous lemons as you walk through the orange and lemon groves. 

SEE THE FARAGLIONI - The iconic view of the giant rock formations that line the rugged coastline. You just have to go!

MARINA GRANDE BEACH - We spent a couple of hours at the beach getting a little sun, soaking up the views and floating in the crystal clear water. The beach was pretty empty when we were there in October, but the weather was still enjoyable at 75. Instead of sand, there were giant round rocks that were a little hard on the feet, but we got used to it.

TAKE A BOAT TOUR IN THE BLUE GROTTO - With limited time we decided to relax on the beach over traveling to the Blue Grotto in Ana Capri. Honestly, we've read mixed reviews on this. Some say it's magical and others mention that is too commercialized and overpriced. Why do I include it? Because opinions aside this isn't something you can do everywhere

VISIT THE SHOPS - One of our favorites shops was Carthusia, a beautifully curated perfume shop with refreshing scents that spill into the streets and lead you straight into the store. In the back, you can see the scientists working on the different scents; I thought that was pretty interesting. 

Canfora Capri Sandals is another neat little shop to check out if you love sandals. Each pair of sandals is handmade on the island using high-quality leather and materials. The history of this place is pretty impressive. They have a sandal named Like Jackie after the shoes Jackie Kennedy chose after her visit there in 1962.. 

EATS // 

BUONOCORE GELATERIA - If you are near the piazza you are just a minute away from the best gelato on the island (my favorite in Italy). You will know you're close when you smell the fresh scent of waffle cone in the air. Let your nose guide you! Walking on vacation = at least two gelato breaks per day! I got the toasted almond and the pistachio along with the oh so fresh waffle cone.

BUCA DI BACCO - This little hidden gem was just minutes away from our Airbnb. When we arrived, there weren't many people there but by the time we left the places was packed and lively. This was our first meal in Italy, and I was a little nervous to order in Italian, but we made it work. We started with a bottle of red wine and the classic Caprese salad. We each got a pizza and something little for dessert. I will admit when the pizzas came out uncut; we were a little confused then had to look around to see if this was normal. It was, so we cut it with our fork and knives. Never would have guessed! 

LO SFIZIO -  Someone we met recommended this place for dinner our second night. It's a local favorite and out of the touristy areas. It's a 10-minute straight uphill hike to get there buts so worth it! The Caprese salad was the best we had in Italy. From there we had two fresh pasta dishes and embraced all the carb overload. When it came time for dessert, I couldn't decide what I wanted to so I asked the waitress her opinion. She said, "you need to try them both, and it's making me hungry thinking about it. How about you have both and we split the one?" So, of course, we did that! She offered us so many shots of limoncello after dinner, which came from the owner's lemon trees. I was afraid if I had any more I'd be rolling back down the hill after dinner. The atmosphere was romantic and candlelit but still felt very family oriented. We were there until nearly 11pm, and the owners ate with their family at the table in the center. It was probably one of our most authentic dining experiences in Italy. 

GETTING AROUND // 

FUNICULAR - The cable railway that will take you up the mountain through the lemon groves and drops you off at the center of Capri. It departs every 15 minutes or so and lasts about 10 minutes. Price is $2.  

ON FOOT - We walked everywhere! Wear comfortable shoes or miss out! I wore sandals both days and didn't have any problems getting around. 

BUS - The buses are located to the right of the port once you arrive. You can purchase tickets there. If you're trying to get to Ana Capri from Capri, this is going to be the best/cheapest option. 

TAXIS - Depending on where you are staying this might be the best arrival option to get there with hands full of luggage. Taxis can easily be found at the base of the port of Marina Grande. 

BOAT - If you're trying to get to a restaurant or a particular location it may be fastest to get there in a boat. Don't forget to check into this option. 

WHAT I WISH I WOULD HAVE KNOWN //

  • STAY LONGER. We had a wonderful time so much so that I wish we would have stayed for at least another two days. Sure, we missed some things we wanted to do and didn't get to visit Ana Capri, but we also spent most of our first day sleeping and trying to recover from all the traveling. This was the relaxing part of our trip and the 2.5 days felt pretty rushed.

BEST TIME TO VISIT // 

The peak months of travel are between June and August, where the tourists flock to the islands and drive up the prices of hotels and ferries. Avoid the crowds and go during early and late summer months (April, May, October). We traveled in the first week of October and were able to lay on the beach and swim and wear light layers in the evening.

WHAT WE BROUGHT HOME //

Keeping space in mind, I found a tiny handmade bowl in an art gallery while wandering around the souvenir shops near the docks. It had the most beautiful royal blue, crackled glaze design on the lid. I knew that I would think of the clear blue water every time I looked at it. It now sits on my bed stand, and I put my earrings and rings in it before bed. 

We stumbled across the Carthusia store and were immediately drawn into all the refreshing fragrances. When inside we watched the perfumers making the scents in the back of the store. We left with a bottle to gift to someone.

WHAT WE SPENT //

BUDGETING: A general idea of what we spent in USD.

  • Airbnb for 2 nights - $284

  • Meals for 2 - Breakfast $10 (pastry and a cappuccino), Lunch $20-30 (Usually pasta or pizza), Average Dinner $50 (Usually bread, an appetizer, two mains, wine, and dessert)

  • Funicular Tickets - $2.50 per ticket

  • High-speed Ferry - $20 ticket one way per person - $80 roundtrip for 2 (Port in Naples to Port in Capri)

  • Train ticket - Naples to Rome $50 per ticket

Do you have any questions or helpful tips for visiting Capri? xx ASH

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