GETTING LOST IN THE CANALS OF VENICE

GETTING THERE //

From Florence (Santa Maria Novella Train Station) we took the high-speed train to Venice (The Venice Santa Lucia Train Station). I didn't realize that besides a boat this was the only way to get into Venice. When we arrived, it was cold and rainy. Luckily we were staying at the cutest B&B where our host greeted us with a glass of wine and cured meats and cheeses. His warm welcome and the cozy little room couldn't have been any more needed after a long morning of traveling. We spent the rest of the afternoon wandering around taking photos. Despite the rain, Venice had a charming, small-town feeling. I couldn't get over the mix of textures on all the buildings and the Venetian Gothic architecture. The way all of the colors blend, and the brick had fallen, it all seemed too perfect to be natural. The waters were blue, and the skies were gray. 

ACCOMMODATIONS //

We had only intended to spend 1 night in Venice but it rained miserably the first day we decided to stay a second. We booked our single night at the most lovely B&B (Venice-BB- Venezia) just minutes from the train station. Our host, Alessandro, was the so welcoming and had infectious energy. His dog, Gina, was the B&B owner. The room was clean, simple and had everything we needed. Breakfast in the morning was a full spread and one of the most delicious meals I had in Italy. He walked across town that morning for the bread and made everything fresh. It was a feast! I highly recommend staying with Alessandro, just be sure to book in advance and space is very limited. 

Because of the rain, we decided to stay another night. It was last minute, and we knew we wouldn't be in the room much at all. The location was essential as we wanted to stay even closer to the train. We booked the second night at Hotel Amadeus, which was nothing to write home about - especially after our stay at the B&B. I ended up with ants in my toiletry bag that made their way into my coconut oil from the mini fridge. It was pretty gross!

RAIN DELAY //

When we woke the first day, we heard the flood warning whistles. With only one day to explore we layered up, grabbed our umbrellas and set off into the flooded streets. Our first stop was purchasing some gorgeous neon colored plastic boot covers to keep our shoes dry, so worth €10. This wasn't how I pictured Venice but the rain running down the sides of the colorful, gothic buildings was a different kind of beauty. The canals overflowed into the streets and locals walked around like it was just another day in Venice. I felt like a kid on a snow day, except it was rain instead. We laughed, we made the most of our ridiculous boot covers and went with it!

We spent the day exploring and getting lost in the canals. I was surprised when I read that Venice is made of 118 submerged islands that have 400-footbridges and 170 boat canals to connect the city and make it accessible for people. 

We enjoyed ourselves the most when we broke away from the busy squares and got away from the people.

ATTRACTIONS //

Rialto Market - Hit up the local market, check the days & times and take a gondola ride over. We skipped the €150 ride and instead took the €2.50 ride that the locals take, where we still had the boat to ourselves.

Saint Marks Square - Although this is one of the most popular places to see, we hated every minute of it. Perhaps it was the rain bringing out all the weird people, but we were bombarded with men trying to hand us rice so we could get the pigeons to fly on us. Then after they followed us demanding 15 euro we were ready to go. It really took away from the vibes of the area. Not to mention it was packed and not a good day to sit and people watch. 

Rialto Bridge - A beautiful bridge that is lined with small shops and a lovely view over the Grand Canal. It's one of Venice's most famous landmarks! 

Touristy Gondola Ride - A lovely way to Venice from a different perspective. Rides are pricey €80-150 but can be shared with other people

Palazzo Mora Exhibitions - We needed to get out of the rain and randomly found this beautiful exhibit. The location was stunning. Each room offered interesting modern art that was a breath of fresh air after seeing so much religious art. We spent a couple of hours here exploring the different floors..

EATS & DRINKS // 

Torrefazione Cannaregio - COFFEE - A total hidden gem! One of the best expressos we had in Italy. They roast their bean right there, and they were extremely friendly. There aren't any seats or tables but stand at the bar like a local. I had the cappuccino with chocolate... It was heaven! 

After a couple days in Italy, it's apparent that there is a strong coffee culture here. Not a lot of people know that the love for coffee started in Venice as the coffee bean was brought from Istanbul in the 1570's. Venetians and Arabs had a flourishing trade industry which enabled a large variety of goods and commodities to be imported. The merchants sold this new beverage, coffee to the wealthy and from there it spread through the rest of Italy. This is something the Venetians are very proud of. 

Grom Gelato - GELATO - We randomly stumbled across this place. Dear goodness, go for the pistachio! Lucky after returning to NYC, I was told they have four different Grom's here in the city. I had no idea! 

Il Santo Bevitore - PUB - Off the beaten path, stopped in here for their vast craft beer selection. FINALLY an IPA in Italy. After almost two weeks of crappy beers we found a hidden gem.. and never wanted to leave. Everyone there was cool, and you could tell this is where the locals came. Cozy atmosphere and delicious snacks.

Birreria Zanon - PUB - We passed here a couple of times, and this place was happening. The energy was high, and I wish we would have stopped. 

Pontini - DINNER - We didn't have a chance to eat here, but it was recommended. I knew it had to be good because there was a line about 45 minutes long and everyone was standing outside in the rain. 

Osteria ai 40 Ladroni - DINNER - in the Cannaregio neighborhood. Highly recommended by our B&B host, it's one of his favorite local gems. He suggested getting the crab polenta and cuttlefish pasta (blackened by their ink)

Resturants our list for next time: Ristorante Al Covo

WHAT WE SPENT //

BUDGETING: A general idea of what we spent in USD.

  • Airbnb for 1 night - $135

  • Hotel Amadeus - 1 night - $125

  • Meals for 2 - Breakfast $10 (pastry and a cappuccino), Lunch $20-30 (Usually pasta or pizza), Average Dinner $50 (Usually bread, an appetizer, 2 mains, wine, and dessert)

  • Tickets for the "locals" gondola ride - $2.5

  • Train ticket - High speed from Florence to Venice - $50 each

Have you been to Venice? If so, what were your favorite things? If you are planning, what are you most interested in seeing? Comment below

 xx ASH