Siena is a medieval town, located in Italy's central Tuscany. Here you'll find preserved the Gothic architecture, and well, I've never seen anything like it. From the red brick to the cobblestone streets, it's small-town charm is undeniable. The buildings stand 4-8 stories high, and the colorful shutters and little balconies contrast from the abundant red brick. From above terra cotta clay tiles can be seen covering the roof of every building. In the distance, rolling hills melt and disappear into the horizon, creating a beautiful Tuscan landscape. It’s just a short bus ride away from Florence, making it a perfect place to make a day trip!
GETTING THERE //
From Rome, we took the bus to Siena. We didn't have any expectations of Siena, instead we just randomly picked it based on where we could easily get to by bus. If you travel to Italy, Siena is a must! It's a quick day trip from Rome or Florence. I'd suggest giving yourself at least two days to explore the shops, visit the Duomo, enjoy some gelato and a traditional Tuscan dinner.
RAIN, RAIN GO AWAY //
Our first day was spent wandering the streets, stopping in all the little shops and making necessary stops for gelato. The narrow streets are naturally on the darker side, and the gray storm clouds in the distance added to the drama. We sat on the ground in the Piazza del Campo and watched the storm roll in. We didn't have dinner plans and decided to grab a beer and cheese plate in the Piazza and wait for the storm to pass. After a couple of hours and a couple of pretty bad beers, it stopped dumping rain, and we slowly walked back to our bed and breakfast.
ACCOMMODATIONS //
We found a little B&B on Airbnb last minute right in the heart of the Siena. It was a long six story walk up, but the simple room with a shared bathroom for $75/night was just what we needed. Oh, and the views looking out over Siena were PRICELESS, especially during sunset. We ended up staying here another night and upgraded to a room with a private bathroom and an even better view. Although we had a slight language barrier here, the hosts were super helpful making recommendations and giving us maps of Siena.
EATS //
We asked anyone that we communicated easily with for food recommendations. We were told to avoid places that gave you "English menus" or places that had the gelato stacked sky high with unnatural looking colors. It was here I felt the need for a carb break and was desperate for a salad. I just assumed the "rocket" in the salad was seafood because of the high price 15+ euros. Nope, turns out that's just what they call arugula. Anyways, these are the places we ended up eating!
NANNINI - COFFEE & BREAKFAST - We stopped here each morning for a cappuccino and a savory meat and cheese croissant. The have endless desserts and sweet treats.
RISTORANTE IL CAMPO - LUNCH - Our touristy lunch overlooking the Piazza del Campo. We got a pizza and struggled to cut it with a fork and knife, then spent the rest of the meal wondering why they just don't cut the pizza like they do in the states. HA!
ANTICA TRATTORIA PAPEI - DINNER - We wanted to know where the locals ate, so we asked our B&B host, and this was at the top of his list. We arrived when they opened at 7 pm, and within minutes the entire restaurant was full. We sat outside on the covered patio. Let me start by saying our service was incredible. The waiter was so excited to learn about us and help us with any questions about the menu. We ended the meal with complimentary shots of limoncello in NYC shot glasses and some almond cookies.
OSTERIA II GRATTACIELO - DINNER - Another recommendation just steps away from our B&B. We got here an hour before they closed. The waitress was friendly, but we were surprised they didn't have menus and only had one or two kinds of pasta with your choice of sauce. It was a little strange not knowing prices or really what we were ordering, but our meal was both delicious, quick and cheap. I was surprised to see that this little gem was #27 out of 400 restaurants in Siena.
LOCAL GROCERY STORE - Don't forget to check out the options at the local grocery store. There was a beautifully fresh, made to order section where we picked up some little things, along with a bottle of wine, meats, and cheeses so we could have at the B&B,
THINGS TO DO //
VISIT THE DUOMO - Easily the #1 thing you must do when visiting Siena. It's hands down one of the most stunning pieces of architecture I have ever seen. I didn't have enough room here to gush about our visit to the Sienna Cathedral (Duomo), a separate post is in the works. Stay tuned!.
HANGOUT IN THE PIAZZA DEL CAMPO - Grab some gelato, pack some snacks, or bring a good book to hang out in the Piazza. We sat here for a couple of hours just resting and taking in everything around us.
WALK AROUND TO ALL THE LITTLE SHOPS - Just walking the streets here was fun. All the little shops, restaurants, cathedrals, galleries can easily be found within a short walk. The streets are full of character, and it feels as though you're on a movie set. Some are dark, some are brightly colored and after a day or so you should be able to navigate around pretty easily as Siena is pretty small.
PALIO DI SIENA - Twice a year, in July and August, the center of Siena (Piazza Del Campo) is transformed into a horse racetrack. Thousands of people travel here to watch 17 different neighborhoods compete to win the sought after "Drappellone" prize. Each of the neighborhoods is represented by a decorated silk flag. A historical costume parade takes place before the race and kicks off the most popular event in Siena. People cram into the center of the Piazza and hang from the balconies as the jockeys race bareback around the square. They do three quick laps and the race is usually over in 90 seconds. After learning about the race Coty and I have added this to our bucket list.
* Please note, this is not my photo. It is a photo I took of another photo in one of the shops in Siena. Artist unknown.
WHAT WE BROUGHT HOME //
After dinner one night we decided to get some gelato and walk around. Siena is peaceful in the evening after all the day trippers have left. We walked past a shoe store, and Coty spotted a gold pair of boots on display. He stopped and said you need those boots. The next day we visited the shop, and I decided to splurge on them. They were handmade in Italy and the quality is so stunning which is why we only refer to them as the "stunners" now.
MY ADVICE //
Ask locals for advice on places to eat and things to do throughout Siena.
Try to avoid eating at the touristy spots around the Piazza del Campo.
If visiting the Duomo set aside 2-4 hours and try to get there as early as possible to avoid the lines.
Make time to wander the streets and visit all the shops.
Wear comfortable footwear; there are lots of hills.
Stay at least one night in Siena, rather then just visiting for the day.
WHAT WE SPENT //
BUDGETING: A general idea of what we spent in USD.
Airbnb for three nights - $263 total - average $87 per night
Meals for 2 - Breakfast $10 (pastry and a cappuccino), Lunch $20-30 (Usually pasta or pizza), Average Dinner $50 (Usually bread, an appetizer, two mains, wine, and dessert)
Tickets for Duomo - $15 per person
Bus ticket - From Rome to Siena - $25 per person
Bus ticket - From Siena to Florence - $10 per person
Have you been to Siena? If so, did you make it to the Duomo? I’ll do a separate blog post on the Duomo soon. xx ASH
